Gordon Ramsay-trained chef takes Rockwater to next level

I could see where they were coming from: a fancy eatery from Brighton with a venture capitalist at the helm. 

But having been there three times since its opening, I’m pleased to say nobody in Rockwater looked as if they had been stung by a bee. And its chief executive Luke Davis is well-mannered and pleasant to talk to. 

My latest adventure into Rockwater was once again at the Upper Terrace to try out the new spring menu. 

Josh Deacon, executive chef at Rockwater (Image: PR)

Menus based on seasons make me very happy because it shows the chefs take care and pride in what ingredients they choose. 

And nobody can care more about their food than Rockwater’s newly appointed executive chef Josh Deacon.

He's a classically French-trained chef who has learnt from Gordon Ramsay at the Savoy Grill in the Savoy Hotel and his Maze restaurant. 

What Josh has done is create not just food but art; the lovechild of Mona Lisa and Gordon Ramsay. The dishes I had were elegant, seductive and irresistible. 

I started with a beef tartare. Admittedly it was my first ever try of the French raw meat dish so I have no notes to compare it with, but it was ace. Served with horseradish puree and charred sourdough, it’s a dish from a nation that knows how to cook. 

My main was a lamb rump served with almond aioli, pomegranate, mint pear and freekah (Google it) and it was unlike anything I’ve ever had before. 

Lamb rump/Chicken yakitori (Image: Daily Echo)

Aside from the lamb being in season and cooked to perfection, the ingredients worked together as harmoniously as a Just Stop Oil protester and glue – only the food is a lot more palatable. 

Along with the lamb, the excellent waiters and waitresses brought out some other dishes for me to try including a shaved cauliflower salad (which had romanesco cauliflower) and seabass ceviche, served with burnt baby corn, pickled onion and jalapeño dressing. 

What a joy. Josh told me the restaurant will be focusing more towards fish in the future given its prize seafront location. 

And fish is Rockwater’s ultimate calling. I’m hoping to see moules frites on the menu soon, given Josh’s love for French food. 

Meanwhile for pudding, it was a chocolate fondant with kirsch cherries and an exotic fruit betron tart. The fruit tart in particular should be recommended to everybody. 

Exotic fruit breton tart (Image: Daily Echo)

Nothing bad can be said about the food. You could argue the price – but when you’re sat with stunning views of the sea and the attention to detail to what’s been cooked, it’s entirely justified. 

The only downside to Rockwater – and I’m clutching at straws here as it isn’t limited to here – is being asked if I have any allergies. It seems everybody has some form of allergy these days. For once I want to sit down for a meal without having to disclose my non-existent medical history. 

But I’d urge everybody to give Rockwater a go. Certainly, with The Ivy looking like it has pulled out of Bournemouth, we all now have a decent fancy restaurant to go to. 

What we ate (for two people) 

Starters:

Beef tartare – confit egg yolk emulsion, horseradish puree and charred sourdough - £15 

Sourdough bread with marmite butter - £4.50 

Mains:

Lamb rump – almond aioli, pomegranate, mint pear and freekah - £26 

Chicken yakitori – nashi pear, pickled chilli and cucumber salad, bonito flakes - £22 

Seabass ceviche – burnt baby corn, pickled onion, jalapeno dressing - £12 (served as a side) 

Shaved cauliflower salad – pickled raisins, caraway vinaigrette, marmite puree - £11 

Fries with parmesan and truffle mayo - £7 

Pudding: 

Chocolate fondant pot – dark chocolate fondant, chocolate soil, kirsch cherries, pistachio praline and vanilla ice cream - £9.50. 

Exotic fruit breton tart – passion fruit curd, mango gel, coconut crumb, coconut sorbet - £9.